Last week was EXTREME!!

EXTREME!! That was the theme for our trip to Byron, Surfers, and Brisbane. We headed north looking for warmth and sunshine and instead got wind and rain. We had transportation issues. But I was with a pretty great group of people (trip planned by Jeremy for his birthday. Me, Josh, Alex, Juan, Madeleine & Steph were the others), and somehow all the setbacks didn't matter. We had a great week, and it was once again very difficult to return to Canberra.

Day 1: McDonald's breakfast. Sleep on bus to Sydney. 1 hour flight on Jetstar (budget airline) from Sydney to Ballina. It had just rained for the first time in 3 months. Supposed to have a free shuttle to our hostel in Byron Bay. The number we called claimed they didn't do that. The guy who ended up driving us told us the train hasn't run out of Byron for 3 years. Hmm, never trust countrylink.com.au.

We drove through the little town on our way to the hostel. We loved Byron instantly. The hostel let us all together in one room. It was just a hop skip and a jump from the beach. By that I mean, through some bushes, over the train tracks, through some more bushes, and VOILA! The beach! Of course I raced for the water - I expected it to be freezing but it was actually pretty warm!

We took it easy that first night. Wandered around the town a little, even though most things were closed. It's a little hippie place. Just a few blocks make up the main part of the town. Lots of people with dreadlocks. Lots of shops with hippie clothes. It's about 40 minutes from a place called Nimbin, the "Amsterdam of Australia." It really only took us about 10 minutes to decide we love the place.

We ate dinner at the "universally famous" Earth'n'Sea pizza. $35 dollar for a large pizza but delicious. Lots of weird topping combinations. Josh and Juan got their beer - called B.K. I think - and deemed it the best beer in the world. They were being serious. Tasted pretty good from the sip I had. They were pretty upset to find out there's nowhere else to get it. If you're ever in Byron, make sure you eat there!

(click on pictures for bigger image)


There was a fire twirling show by a hippie couple with dreadlocks at the hostel that night. It was cool, but they performed to their own bad music. They also own a shop called Fairy Floss in town. It sells fairy and hippie clothes and fire twirling gear.

We went out to the beach aftewards and had the whole thing to ourselves, lit only by the lighthouse on the hill. We stopped at a bar in town, but headed home pretty early.


Day 2: Woke to sunshine, but clouds rolled in. We were supposed to do sea kayaking but they cancelled on us because of the wind. We got breakfast at a bakery and decided to do the hike to the lighthouse. Over beach, over rocks, through "rainforest", it took us a few hours. Absoutely gorgeous views. The sun came out for a lot of our walk.





That afternoon, the guys decided to do kite boarding to make up for no kayaking. I wanted to dry it, but opted for swimming instead. The water was warmer than the air (and was much more pleasant than getting covered by wind blown sand on the beach) and there was a sandbar that broke up the waves and created a nice shallow pool. I just wished I had a boogie board! The kite boarding guy was originally from Spain. His name was Crazy Alex. And his wife was originally from New Zealand. And they were a crazy little "EXTREME!!" family. After the kiteboarding (only Jeremy and Alex actually got to do it on the water - they learned on the sand), Alex took us to his van to show us his other toys. Free line... like skateboarding, except that each of your feet is on a pair of wheels that isn't connected to the other pair. Snake board... a 2 wheeled skateboard with a joint in the middle. Stilts on springs. He made us all try something, and then his extreme wife, 3 year old daughter and 8 year old son all showed us up. Alex told Jeremy that what he does for a living is "teach people how to have fun." Now that's the life!



This night we got cheap food at a place called Cheeky Monkeys... fun for one night, but a total tourist bar. We did end up back there to celebrate Jeremy's birthday. The girl who drove us over was from Canada. She was supposed to stay in Byron for 2 days, but has now been there 2 months. It's just that kind of place.


Day 3: The guys wanted to do more kiteboarding and I had wanted to try surfing lessons, but it was a cloudy day, we were tired, and the wind was worse. We bumped up our shuttle time to leave Byron by a few hours. We had Mexican food for brunch and everyone else got gelato (we ate a lot of gelato on this trip) while Madeleine and I explored the shops. Popped into a few hippie stores, some aboriginal stores, and we all took one last stroll on the beach.

Next stop: Surfers Paradise. Queensland! The Sunshine State! The woman who drove us there (about an hour's drive) asked us, "Is Canberra really the most boring place in the universe?" She knew someone who had lived there and had to move away because they didn't like it. We told her uni life is great.

Once again, our YHA hostel was nearly a stone's throw from the beach. Ok, so across the street and around the back of the fancy hotel. Man, Jeremy knows how to pick the prime accomodation! Another night of relaxing. We had a $5 bbq at the hostel. Sausage AND steak, salad, potato salad... ohh it was good.

Everyone else relaxed at the hostel, but we were right on Mariner's Cove, which had a little pier with bars and restaurants. The band playing at Fisho's sounded great so I went down to listen. The band was called Grassroots Street Band. When their set was over, the guy next to me asked me how I liked them. He knew the lead singer and was there with a few other friends (all locals). His name was Sonny. I knew he was a little... off when in response to finding out I was a psyc major he said, "Oh, I just saw a psychologist today." (Which is perfectly fine, but normally that's not the information you share in the first 5 minutes of conversation!) The girl he was with was really cool, and his other friends asked me how I was liking Australia, but Sonny decided that we should talk about... hippie things. He told me he has a condition related to methylation(??) where too many neurotransmitters fire - but he's on a vitamin treatment instead of drugs. And medication is bad and evil (ok, he didn't actually use the word "evil" but I know he was thinking it!). And since he was so glad to be talking to someone "who's studying at uni and going to be a professional," he decided to give me his thoughts on fluoride in water: it's evil. "They don't put fluoride in the water in Queensland. You can see the difference in the people - they have wider heads, they're more happy and free. It's the holiday spots that don't have fluoride in their water. Like California. California doesn't." I didn't question the wide head comment or bother point out to him that maybe people are happier in those places because of the climate or lifestyle. When he told me that there's 4 times the lethal limit in a liter of DC's water, I asked him why people aren't dying from it. I don't know what his answer was. You know, I had hoped I might meet some locals down at the bar, but this wasn't what I was going for...

Day 4: Farmers market for breakfast and a day on the beach! Surfers is really the opposite of Byron. I know Byron is probably hectic when it's not winter, but Surfers has to be worse. It has high rises. It has Sea World, Movie World, and other theme parks. Frommers calls it the vacation spot for the "rich and tasteless."

It was cloudy. Josh asked me if I wanted to build a sandcastle. Heck, yes! He, Juan, Alex, and I got to work, and Jeremy joined in when he thought we weren't thinking "big enough." The result: the most EXTREME sand castle ever! Built totally by hand. No shovels or buckets for us! It took about 2 hours. We had people stopping to take pictures with it.

And of course we destroyed it by doing flips into it.


(Yes, I know I'm short.)

We played EXTREME frisbee (our modified version of ultimate) then went for a swim. This time we remembered to grab some boogie boards! Water temp was once again good, but man those were some rough waves! Why going to the beach in winter is good: Summer in Australia is stinger (jellyfish) season - NO THANK YOU.

Night of seafood dinner and then to downtown Surfers (not that they say "downtown" here. Sam laughed at me the other day when I said it in reference to Sydney) to check out the nightlife - definitely a high point of Surfers. We were dropped off at Cavill Ave - it was only 10:00 and the place was swarming with people! We ended up at the Beer Garden (my kind of place with a diverse crowd and a live cover band), a dance club called Drink, and a New York syle pizza shop.




Day 4: Everyone else went jet skiing while I sat on the shore and talked to the woman who ran it (we had an odd number and wanted someone to sit out). She and her husband do the jet skiing and own some machine that cools soup quickly. Or something. They wanted to retire and drive around the country in an RV for a few years, but they only made it 3 months, got a job offer, and decided they weren't old enough yet. I was glad I didn't jet ski. Everyone else came back with chattering teeth and purple bodies. We had lunch, watched some dude feed the pelicans, and headed out to Brisbane.

Once again, don't trust the Country Link website. It told us there's one train a day our of Surfers. Liars. There's one every half hour. Although the train station was closed on this particular day, so we had to take a bus to another station. Never trust public transporation.

It was raining. It was still raining when we got to Brisbane. Showered and crashed in at City Backpackers. This was our first real "backpacker hostel" experience. We were split up into three different rooms, and we all shared rooms with strangers, male and female. I could see how this would be cool if the people in your room are talkative, like the one Canadian chick in our room. Or in Juan's room where so many languages were known that the group of them had a crazy English-Spanish-Italian-etc conversation. But I didn't like worrying about my possessions or wondering why the guy in the corner always seems to stare and never sleep...


Day 5: Awake before 6am for our tour to the sand island of Moreton Island (http://www.qldtravel.com.au/brisbane/sunrover-moreton-island-1-day-tour.html). Our guide, Brandon, picked us up at the train station and drove us to the ferry, where we had a 2 hour ride to the 20-sq-km island. Brendon had dreadlocks and is a Byron Bay native (which means he has a 2 hour commute to work in Brisbane). He told us about how he and his friends like to harass tourists who have just returned stoned on their "Alternative Bus Tours" from Nimbin. He said he'd been driving on Moreton since he was 12 and doing tours for 4 years. There was only one other person on the tour, besides our group: Duncan, originally from England but traveling the world spending inheritance money/teaching English for the past 7 years.

It was a 4 wheel drive tour of the island. 7 people bouncing around in the back of a jeep = fun! There are no real roads on the island... it's all sand. There are 300 residents, but that includes people who have vacation homes there. We saw dolphins when we got off the ferry and I saw a sea turtle from a lookout. We saw a dead turtle on the beach - they die from eating plastic bags they mistake for jellyfish. We swam in a cold freshwater lagoon. We had a delicious lunch under a tarp while it rained. Luckily the weather cleared up after that. We drove down the beach. Brandon told us there was a freshwater spring and that it was the water source for the aborigines that used to live here. A pile of shells that they kept was dated to be over 5000 years old, which is relatively young in the history of aborigines. He said supposedly they worked with the dolphins to catch fish - the dolphins would chase the fish towards the shore and the people would reward the dolphins by throwing back the leftover fish parts.

We stopped at the lighthouse, at some sections of beach, at some places where we could hike around. We were supposed to do sandboarding, but weren't able to because the sand was too wet. Before we left the island, we stopped in "town" to buy snacks and check out the photo board - pictures of people with huge fish and giant sharks caught on the island. Brandon told us that just that week he had been surfing and when he got back on shore a guy told him that two sharks had swam just underneath his board, chasing a school of fish; fins at least a foot out of the water and Brandon hadn't even seen them.

Overall, a really fun tour! Everyone else slept on the 2 hour ferry ride back. I read Life of Pi, which if you don't know, is about a boy who was on a boat that sank. How appropriate.

That night, back in Brisbane (capital city of Queensland), we got dinner on Queen St - a line of shops and restaurants. Brisbane seems like a nice city - clean, full of cool bridges, buildings, and artwork, like most places in Australia I've been so far. After dinner I suggested we head to the Botanic Gardens, which are open 24 hours. We walked through there and along the river. Climbed some trees and scared some possums. Took rediculous pictures. Crossed a bridge to stroll on the other side of the river. Walked by Griffith University and the Maritime Museum. Found a cool walkway with fancy arches which led to their manmade beach - pools filled with sand and animal fountains and it was all lit up at night. Seemed like a fun place. Would have loved to spend a whole day in the city. We walked by a theatre, library, and museum, and crossed another bridge to take us back to the hostel.




Day 6: Of course, it was clear blue skies on the day we left. And it was amazing we all left, because only 5 of the 7 of us made it to the train on time that morning. Alex, who had been sleeping, magically showed up on our next train, and Juan, who had been missing, somehow made it to the airport (we fly Virgin Blue, another budget airline). Let's just say that morning was... EXTREME!

Did anyone really want to be back in Canberra? No. But we assured ourselves we'd be fine. Afterall, it was 10 days till our next vacation!

Wanna see more pictures? I have lots...

Byron Bay: http://gmu.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2093360&l=d9c9d&id=15600311

Surfers, Moreton, & Brisbane: http://gmu.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2093368&l=137c0&id=15600311

And these aren't from this trip, but I updated the 3rd page of my Canberra album:
http://gmu.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2084725&l=abbea&id=15600311